In its author’s opinion, the extremely high acid Zind-Humbrecht 2008 Riesling Brand Selection de Grains Nobles comes off as more austere than its non-”late-harvested” counterpart, and he finds no obvious botrytis on the nose. I, on the other hand, credit noble rot with the aroma of mushroom that this shares with a significant number of other wines in Humbrecht’s 2008 collection, but if this be austerity let me revel in it! Beyond the aforementioned whiff of fungus, marzipan, pistachio extract, buddleia, honeysuckle, orange marmalade, and white raisin combined for a ravishing aromatic and palate performance. Honeyed richness shot through with quickening citricity and salivary gland-liberating salinity clinch an impression of helpless enthrallment. This projects floral essences and ennobled fruit for as long as the utmost will power can manage to hold off the next sip. Anticipate three decades’ worth of wonder.

A rich, juicy white, with crackling acidity winding through the mango, ripe apple, peach and orange candy. An exuberant wine, with lots of power and intensity, but produced in an overall elegant package. Subtle threads of smoke and crushed pine add complexity and linger on the long finish. Drink now through 2030. 100 cases made. –AN