This is one of those wines where you can sense the sheer depth of material simply based on the nose as the very dense fruit displays additional hints of stone tidal pool algae oyster shell and a mix of green fruit and white flower aromas that give way to concentrated serious and rich flavors that are actually quite fine before culminating in an explosively long and palate staining finish. A terrific wine that could easily pass for a grand cru.

Fevre's 2008 Chablis Vaulorent - which following my argumentative recommendation mentioned in issue 186 has been labeled without the name "Fourchaume" - lives up to the estate's long-standing characterization of this site as their "eighth grand cru." Blueberry and raspberry distillate as well as fresh lime grapefruit and crushed stone both intrigue and invigorate on the nose impressions reinforced on a palate that combines real richness of texture as well as succulence of fruit with bright acidity citrus rind pungency berry skin tartness and a depth of marine mineral nuances. Vibrantly interactive and faintly sizzling in finish this practically takes your breath away and should continue dazzling for a decade or more. And given that this isn't priced as a grand cru it represents a remarkable Chablis buying opportunity. Perhaps in the final analysis most of the "genuine" Fevre grand crus have further to traverse in their evolution than this Vaulorent and will eventually overtake it in complexity length and energy ? perhaps. -David Schildknecht

The 2008 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has an intriguing bouquet with a slight liquorice scent that I personally find quite attractive. Plenty of freshness here. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, plenty of depth and weight, notes of lime, Golden Delicious and that subtle liquorice note lending another dimension on the finish. This is a cracking Chablis that is drinking beautifully now. -- Neal Martin

There's a little oak influence to this white but it melds well with the clean lemon floral and mineral flavors. Steely and firm finishing like spring water running over stones. Best from 2012 through 2021. 180 cases imported. -BS