The 2008 Barolo Aeroplanservaj puts on a whole different act. Here, the emphasis is on elegance and finesse. The opulence and massiveness of the wine fits in with the Clerico philosophy, but unlike the Barolo Briccotto its strongest cards are played with a more subtle strategy. The aromas of black fruit and spice are wrapped a bit tighter, and the wine shows some nervous tension in the glass that needs to soften with age. I loved those delicate sprigs of mint and wild flower that somehow emerge from the inner depths of this rock-solid wine. Terrible mudslides in 2009 damaged the Badarina vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba and Clerico did not produce the Aeroplanservaj that year. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. - Monica Larner