Picked out – in part berry-by-berry – over the range of this large site, the Muller-Catoir 2008 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Auslese features Persian melon and quince preserves with lily and heliotrope perfume and a hint of yeastiness; seems to levitate on the palate while supplying a boundless, creamy, indescribably luscious source of honey, fruit preserves, nut oils, and liquid floral perfume; and finishes with soothing, caramel-tinged richness and stimulating hints of peach kernel and salt. You won’t encounter a much more complex and ethereal yet at the same time seductively rich Riesling than this, even in a vintage that favors the possibility. I’d plan on savoring this impeccably-balanced and by no means sugar-dominated Auslese over the next 30 years. - David Schildknecht