Nick Mills has tuned his vines to the cool elevations of Wanaka working through natural viticulture and winemaking to produce this explosively schisty pinot noir a Central Otago classic. The wine's earthy power is checked by layers of red fruit and scents of rhubarb and rose sustaining a remarkable balance of sweet fruit and racy acidity. The flavors last encouraged by long exposure to air promising years of development ahead.--Joshua Greene