Here's another "wow wine" from San Giusto a Rentennano. The fabulous 2008 Vin San Giusto (375 ml) opens to a caramelized dark appearance and thick waves of viscous glycerine and aromatic intensity. This vintage offers enormous depth and intrigue (at just 9% alcohol). The blend used is 90% Malvasia and 10% Trebbiano, and this dessert wine is aged in chestnut wood barrel for six long years. The results are simply delicious. A wine of this important constitution will last decades. - Monica Larner

The 2008 Vin San Giusto is superb. As always, the Vin San Giusto is made in a rich, plush style, but the 2008 is not as opulent as other recent vintages, its 430 grams of residual sugar notwithstanding. Molasses, spices, leather, mint and tobacco are some of the signatures. Lifted aromatics and a kick of acidity on the finish are the hallmarks of a sweet wine made with white grapes, but the weight and overall intensity are much more typical of wines made from red grapes. In fact, I was shocked to learn the 2008 has more sugar than the 2007, a wine from a much warmer vintage! It's a poignant reminder that wines are ultimately about balance rather than single numbers.