The 2008 Vinas de Gain is sourced from Tempranillo vines between 25 and 40 years of age and is matured in new one- and two-year-old wood from several coopers. It has a very well-defined bouquet with crisp blackberry cassis and licorice-scented fruit with fine minerality. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannins crisp acidity and a lovely licorice white pepper and citrus-fresh finish that is linear and nicely focused. Excellent. Drink 2014-2020.

Tight and edgy but ultimately oaky and generous on the nose with earth vanilla dried cheese and blackberry notes. Feels cushioned and complete with depth of feel and flavor; tastes of deep berry mild herbs and finally a toasty wave of coffee and chocolate takes over. Impressive for a 2008; drink now through 2014. - M.S.