The crackling acidity is matched in intensity by the pronounced tea rose note that wafts through this vibrant white. Peach and papaya flavors play off smoke and white pepper notes, lingering on the long, mouthwatering finish. This is delicious, and each sip brings you back for another. Drink now through 2030. 600 cases made. –AN

The golden-colored 2008 Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain is based on very low yields (21 hectoliters per hectare) and offers a deep, pure, intense and elegant nose of ripe and stewed apricots and peaches intermingled with delicate flinty notes of crushed stones. On the palate, this is a rich but most of all very elegant and even filigreed Saint Urbain Pinot with a stimulating saline and grippy, beautifully tart finish. The wine is fresh and lively, and the sweetness comes as fruit rather than as sugar. It's rare, moderate anyway, given this spectacular elegant and vivacious acidity. This is a superb and gastronomic Pinot Gris from one of if not the greatest vineyard in Alsace. The saline and crunchy finish is remarkably uplifting here. The 2008 is much better than former reviewers have thought and certainly is tensioned. Bottled in February 2010 with 12.5% stated alcohol with 46 grams per liter of residual sugar. Natural cork. Tasted in January 2023. - Stephan Reinhardt