The 2009 Lindes de Remelluri is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Viura from 40-year-old vines that is aged in American and French oak. It has a fresh bouquet of mulberry, sloe, wild hedgerow and just a smudge of licorice. It is well-defined, natural, perhaps rustic?but full of character. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly furry tannins. There is a good weight of dark, quite broody fruit with a well-balanced, blackberry and licorice-tinged finish that has satisfying sense of conservatism. Drink 2013-2019. - Neil Martin