This big wine (nearly 15% natural alcohol) is a blend of 77% Merlot 19% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. It boasts an opaque blue/purple color along with a gorgeous bouquet of charcoal incense truffles blackberry jam black currants raspberries and flowers. While enormous in the mouth the limestone soils in which the grapes are grown give the wine good freshness as well as laser-like clarity and precision. Amazing to taste this massive super-concentrated powerhouse comes across as ethereal and almost feminine despite its extravagant fruit density and richness. It is a modern day legend for sure! Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050+

Focused power. This muscular red shows drive yet remains graceful with fresh plum and currant flavors backed by mineral tar and floral notes. The dense texture stays fresh through the sweet spicy finish. Best from 2014 through 2030. -TM

The 2009 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse has been eulogized elsewhere, but returning to this vintage after four years, it's a very good Saint-Émilion rather than a great one. It has a typically ripe and exotic bouquet with a heavy carapace of new oak that doesn't feel completely welded to the fruit. Certainly, there is immense concentration, which will appeal if that's your metric. The palate is intense and structured with layered black fruit, high-toned but lacking complexity. It has a hedonistic allure, and there is a fine grip, notwithstanding that it develops more nuance in the glass. Maybe give it another four to five years? Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant. -- Neal Martin