Mondavi’s flagship bottling is, in 2009, a serious and fairly nervy young Cabernet whose time lies well in the future. Its central fruit fights with ample oak and no small measure of tannin, and it runs headlong to toughness after a relatively supple start on the palate. It winds up fairly gruff and astringent, yet its very deep, classically curranty fruit, while a bit battered, emerges surprisingly unscathed at the end and lends plenty of optimism as to where this one will be once a half-dozen years have passed.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon M by Michael Mondavi is a pretty wine laced with tobacco dried flowers raspberries and gentle spices. Today the tannins appear to be a bit firm considering the wine's otherwise mid-weight structure. There is good balance in the glass but not the personality pedigree or excitement I expect in this price range. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. -Antonio Galloni