This is more overtly floral and distinctly cool with subtle spice and mineral reduction aromas that are followed by rich powerful and broad-scaled yet quite finely detailed and pure flavors that are underpinned by a firm acid spine and an intensely citrus-infused finish. Even though 2009 in general is not a great terroir vintage this could not be mistaken for anything but great Chablis.

The 2009 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a pungent nose with hints of menthol, lemon verbena and honeysuckle, which are aromatics that grab you by the collar. There's a very faint, almost Brie-like aroma in the background, but nothing disturbing. The palate has plenty of personality with an engaging sharpness and linearity. You might suppose it derives from a much cooler growing season. Long and tender on the finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at the Wallace brother's Xmas bash. -- Neal Martin