Here the sulfur is not subtle and will clearly require some time before it is fully integrated as the ripe aromas of peach pear and citrus struggle to be detected. By contrast there is good verve and punch to the bigger richer and more concentrated full-bodied flavors that possess notably better depth and length if not the same finesse. Still this is the more complete wine though be aware that it may not be the best choice to try young due to the SO2; if you are going to try one be sure to decant it for 20 to 30 minutes first. (Outstanding sweet spot âT¥)

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet is one of the most powerful wines in this lineup largely owing to the high amount of millerandage (shot berries) in this old-vine parcel. This is an especially big muscular wine endowed with considerable richness and a dense plush finish. It is perhaps just a touch less refined than some of the other 2009s here. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. - Antonio Galloni