An earthiness pervades the scent of this wine, though its dark notes belie how light it is on the palate, with sweet red plum flavors. Its length owes as much to acidity as it does to light tannins, with freshness and grip that work well together.

The Chehalem 2009 Pinot Noir Ridgecrest appears either to be more positively evolved or else to simply have had an edge in balance from the outset over its “Reserve” counterpart (which I happen to have been shown first). There is a more luscious sense of primary red berry juiciness here, with acids unusually prominent for the vintage but not too tart or detached, in consequence lending real vibrancy to a spice-tinged and mouthwateringly saline finish. As with most of the wines from two vintages that I tasted most recently at this address, the refinement of tannin is admirable, an accomplishment that stands out especially in the context of this often tannin-challenged vintage. (A 1994 I tasted alongside was dominated by black tea, leather, and autumn foliage, its fruit to my way of thinking a bit past the point of having sufficient sap; and a 2002 was already fading.) - David Schildknecht

his is also quite alluringly perfumed with its cool and spicy nose of purple fruit, earth and dark berry scents. There is good punch to the detailed and sophisticated medium-bodied flavors that are supported by notably fine-grained on the balanced and persistent finish. This very forward effort is exceptionally stylish and delicious if only moderately complex. Still, this is really very pretty.