Quince preserves honey and high-toned herbal and floral essences on the nose of Chidaine's 2009 Vouvray Le Bouchet - from a site with octogenarian vines between his Clos Baudoin and Huet's Clos du Bourg and not harvested until October 19 - reveal its proclivity for noble rot (even when picked in the first week of October). This is a demi-sec in all but name.. Tangerine cream candied grapefruit rind quince preserves and nougat inform a rich creamy palate that nonetheless incorporates a welcome persistence of juicy fresh citrus. This combines the best aspects of typical 2009s of its genre with the sense of levity refreshment and overall elegance that Francois Chidaine has almost uniquely managed to capture this year. Expect a wine that will be worth following for at least two decades. 92-93+ -DS