Needing more patience the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Papet (75% Grenache 15% Mourvedre and the balance Syrah aged in foudre) comes from the estate's oldest vines planted in such famous sites as Mont Olivet and Bois Dauphin. Usually about 1000 cases are produced and the 2009 which tops the scales at 15.5% alcohol is brilliant. A gorgeously aromatic bouquet of dark fruits kirsch underbrush raspberries licorice spice box and pepper soars from the glass of this dark ruby/purple-tinged wine. Opulent and voluptuously textured with moderate tannins and a broad fleshy mouthfeel it has 15 years of evolution ahead of it. Nevertheless it is very accessible and upfront now.

The 2009 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuvée du Papet is a no nonsense traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape that's made to age. A blend of 70% Grenache 20% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah that's aged in a combination of cask demi-muid and older barrels it shows a masculine edgy character with brilliant aromas of black cherry licorice leather garrigue and crushed stone. Very focused and structured on the palate and more fun to taste than to drink currently the wine has solid concentration an energetic lively feel and a tannic firm finish. Hide bottles in the cellar for a solid 4-6 years and then drink over the following 15+ years. 94+

Tight and rather backward for the vintage, with a strong chalk and iron profile up front that holds the core of dark fig, macerated black currant and roasted woodspice at bay for now. Extra bay, black tea and tobacco notes run through the finish. A gorgeous throwback style that needs time to round into form. Best from 2015 through 2030. –JM