92+ From the Colle al Matrichese location east of Montalcino’s city walls, the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino shows a rich fabric that is woven tight with evident strands of black fruit, mesquite smoke, crushed black pepper, licorice, rosemary oil and root beer. The wine leans away from the sweet side of Brunello to the savory side and that is ultimately what makes it so attractive. It is put together thanks to masculine and muscular touches with evocative shadings of smoke and mineral that shift and change as the wine opens in the glass. This bouquet is a moving target that keeps your fixed attention for as long as you have the wine in front of you. And, considering the general quality here compared to many of its peers, that won’t be very long at all. The mouthfeel feels a bit shorter than past vintages and that’s why this wine didn’t score higher. - Monica Larner

This wine shows real depth, beginning with earthy aromas of underbrush, ripe berried fruit, blue flower and smidge of leather. The palate offers a core of black cherry accented with notes of baking spices and a hint of truffle alongside a solid tannic backbone and nervous acidity that restrains the berry richness. Drink 2016–2024.