Disgorged in April 2019, De Sousa's 2009 Extra-Brut Umami is showing superbly, wafting from the glass with aromas of peach, honeycomb, dried fruit, walnuts and warm biscuits. Full-bodied, vinous and textural, it's elegant and seamless, with a layered core, bright balancing acids and a delicately pearly mousse. Concluding with a long and sapid finish that certainly lives up to the cuvée's name, this is a brilliant effort from a producer that deserves to be much better known among Anglophone wine lovers.- WK

Created with a smooth texture to complement the umami flavors in Japanese food, this Champagne is textured with mature toast flavors as well as spice that balances tangy acidity that lies in the background. This wine is ready to drink. ROGER VOSS

This rested long on lees in pursuit of textural harmony and has a terrific sense of purity of fruit and mineral. Subtly smooth edges to a long, sleeve-like palate with dry, crunchy, yellow-citrus and grilled-nut flavors. Drink now.