Note: a blend of fruit coming from 35+ and 75+ year old vines all in Charmes Dessus which is the best part directly below Perrières and abutting Combettes. Aromatically this is almost a hypothetical blend of the Genevrières and the Goutte d'Or but here there is even more intensity to the mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that evidence really lovely purity of expression on the explosive and driving finish. This is clearly a Charmes from the upper part of the vineyard as there is none of the borderline excessive generosity of the lower portion. - Comments: Outstanding ♥

The 2009 Charmes is stunning as it offers up a stunning synthesis of pure and charming fruit tones and kaleidoscopic minerality. The superb bouquet soars from the glass in a blend of apple passion fruit iodine hazelnuts beautifully complex soil tones and a touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep full-bodied and absolutely complete with a suave attack beautiful mid-palate depth bright acids laser-like focus and stunning length and grip. This will be difficult to keep one's hands off of in the cellar but five years of bottle age will produce an even more magical bottle! 2015-2040+. 94+

The 2009 Meursault Charmes is sumptuous sweet and layered yet also possesses striking minerality and nuance all of which make for a complete totally harmonious wine. The best is saved for last as the Charmes turns positively explosive on the finish. The Charmes is made from three parcels. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Dominique Lafon's 2009s are just as stunning from bottle as they were when I tasted them in cask earlier this year. Lafon is one of the most thoughtful growers in Burgundy. Along with a group of his colleagues Lafon is among the producers who has basically re-examined every aspect of the way he makes wine in response to the problem of premature oxidation. Today-s wines spend more time on their lees but that is just one of many changes that have taken place here over the last few years. Except as noted I tasted the 2009s from bottle. --- Antonio Galloni