This powerful red offers a muscular core of roasted fig blackberry and cassis fruit framed by thick mesquite-tinged tannins with loads of tobacco pepper and tar coating the finish. Yet despite its power this is racy and defined with mouthwatering cut on the finish where the mesquite note lingers. Ambitiously toasty yet fully integrated. On par with the superb 2001 and 2005 vintages. Best from 2014 through 2024. 750 cases made. -JM

A field blend of mainly Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre that’s aged for 18 months in small, 1-5 year old French oak barrels, the modern styled 2009 Domaine de Beaurenard (Paul Coulon et Fils) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard shows its oak elevage on nose with graphite and butcher shop-like aromas intermixed that are buffered by thrilling crème de cassis, white chocolate, licorice, and meat juice-like qualities on the nose. Despite the oak, this has brilliant purity of fruit and stays light and fresh, without ever being heavy or cumbersome. Full-bodied on the palate, with fantastic concentration, a rich, firm texture, and loads of structure, this smoking Châteauneuf-du-Pape isn’t for those that shy away from a modern style, but is stunning nonetheless. Give bottles 3-5 years in the cellar, and then drink over the following two decades.

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard (60% Grenache and 40% other varietals from 60- to 100-year-old vines) reveals a hint of toasty vanillin from its aging in small oak but I have been buying these wines for many years and that characteristic usually disappears by age 7 or 8. This dense ruby/purple-tinged round generous plump succulent effort reveals hints of graphite black currants blackberries and kirsch. Heady as well as softer than most vintages tend to be at this age with admirable concentration purity and texture it should drink nicely for 10-15 years.