Even more concentrated than Huët’s superb 2009 Première Trie, this is outstanding. It has both great concentration and elegance. The wine is touched by botrytis, while retaining freshness. Made from ripe, just shrivelling grapes, this is sweet Vouvray at its magnificent best.

This stunning wine is fresh, pure and driven at first, with seamless ginger, creamed fig and glazed pear fruit, before showing its density and power via the honeycomb-, quince- and heather-filled core. Then the minerality cuts in, turning the finish back to racy despite the range of exotic fruit. A jaw-dropping display of richness balanced by precision. Drink now through 2040. 400 cases made. –JM

Tasted in London at Bordeaux Index This is a brilliant Cuvee Constance that may well rank as their best since the immortal ’89. The bouquet demands coaxing from the glass, but suddenly blossoms with tinned pineapple, Kaffir lime, kumquat, clear honey and oyster shells. The palate displays a vibrant entry that roots feet to the floor, brilliant definition and poise, very intense and focused, almost edgy with a harmonious honeycomb and quince-tinged finish that caresses the palate. Tempting to pop this early, but it will last for years. Drink now-2030+ Tasted October 2010.

At 11% alcohol and 150 grams of residual sugar, the Huet 2009 Vouvray Cuvee Constance – fourth in the past decade, incidentally – offers a striking nose of honey, white raisin, and concentrated herbal and floral essences. Salted caramel, hazelnut cream, marzipan, white raisin, liquid floral perfume, and honey are all leavened with fresh lime, white peach, and grapefruit. Like a refined cocktail of essence-of-Chenin mingled with fresh fruit juices with dashes of salt and chalk, this finishes with ravishing and invigorating persistence and should be worth following for 3 or more decades. - David Schildknecht