Brun's 2009 Fleurie - based on purchased fruit - displays remarkable depth and intrigue of mineral and animal nuances to accompany its pristine evocation of diverse ripe black fruits. Roasted meats smoked meats marrow stone and mineral salts; black tea and peat make for riveting complexity in a wine that is dense yet buoyant richly-fruited yet vivacious and positively vibratory in finish. This stupendous value should hold up well for at least 5-6 years - not that one would want to miss out on it in its glorious youth. -David Schildknecht