The Duboeuf 2009 Fleurie Clos des Quatre Vents - tasted from tank; and as usual a cuvee from old vines treated to long cool fermentation - displays ripe blackberry and blueberry ocean breeze black tea borage and bittersweet iris perfume in the nose. Silken and expansive on the palate this is a little less intriguing but even more generous than the corresponding Fleurie Grand Pre finishing with soothing yet stimulating length and likely to be worth following for 3-4 years.-David Schildknecht