The effects of extended maceration and maturation in one and two year old barrels is very evident in the 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Domaine des Rosiers - still in barrel when I tasted a pre-assemblage - which combines resin and vanilla with cassis and boysenberry; offers an almost thickly rich sense of concentration; and finishes with a bit of awkward roughness and persistent slightly drying woodiness. That said this is powerfully fruity and its notes of salt iodine and leather certainly lend a degree of complexity and the wine seems more likely to in time slough off the effects of its wooden upbringing than do a couple of its fellow Duboeuf Moulin-a-Vents. -David Schildknecht