This is aromatically a bit less elegant than the Mitans but it is more complex with cool red and blue pinot fruit, violet, earth and stone nuances introducing attractively rich and equally pure middle weight flavors that exhibit real verve on the mouth coating and exceptionally persistent finish. As usual, this is a classic Volnay that is built to age and will need every bit of 12 to 15 years to be at its best. In short, this is a knockout.

(93+) The 2009 Clos du Château des Ducs is a beautifully reserved and elegant rendition of the vintage. The deep and classic nose delivers scents of cherries, blood orange, vinesmoke, fresh herb tones, a very complex base of soil and a topnote of cocoa. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, tight and very, very long on the backend, with impeccable balance, superb focus and impressive grip on the ripely tannic and youthful finish. This will be stellar in the fullness of time. (Drink between 2020-2050)