Tar, cloves, girolle mushrooms, with intense black fruits that are met by fresher red fruits, ensuring nother is too overpowering. This is a great vintage at Langoa, has the intensity that will please the crowds but the delicacy and St Julien finesse that makes it true to itself. First year for technical director François Brehant. 70% new oak.

The best vintage until 2022 has really come on strong. Full-bodied, rich and intense, yet, subdued, classic, and packed with cedar, mint, black and red fruits, dusty tannins and tobacco. There is length and tons of fruit in the finish that keeps on going. Drink from 2023-2045.

Served blind at the Southwold 2009 tasting. This is a superb performance from Langoa Barton. Here, the 2009 has a lifted, perfumed, Burgundy-inspired bouquet that is nicely defined but showing a little more unresolved oak than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit on the entry: strawberry, cedar and blackcurrant. This is strict and very linear, conservative but compelling. The class is here from start to finish and presently stands shoulder to shoulder with its “big bro’”.

A deceptively approachable wine. Its gorgeous fruits are right up front, their ripeness powered by a generous, complex texture. There is concentration, but it is surrounded by so much richness. It can almost be drunk now, but should age well.

Very dense and still rather reserved, with dark blueberry, blackberry and fig notes rolled together, framed by freshly brewed espresso and Black Forest cake notes. Long and tarry through the finish, with a melted licorice snap note hanging on at the very end. Best from 2014 through 2030. – JM

The medium to deep garnet colored 2009 Langoa Barton is scented of warm red and black plums, dried mulberries and blackcurrant cordial with touches of dried mint and new leather. Medium to full-bodied with a solid frame of grainy tannins and bold freshness, it has loads of red and black berry preserves layers on the long, savory finish. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown