(BH91-94 points) A moderately exotic nose of very ripe yellow fruit and honeysuckle is followed by rich, full and luxurious flavors that brim with seemingly buckets of dry extract yet there is a fine sense of underlying tension and precision on the balanced and lingering finish. This can't match the '08 for finesse and refinement but this is a lovely '09 all the same.

The 2009 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Louis Carillon is drinking well, offering up an expressive bouquet of pastry cream, lemon curd, spring flowers and white peach. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and richly textural, with a lascivious, unctuously layered mid-palate and a rich but nicely delineated finish. It doesn't rank among Carillon's greatest hits, but it's an attractively gourmand Bienvenues that I'd be inclined to drink now. - William Kelley