The 2009 Cami Pesseroles is named after a route taken by travelers (the same origin as "Pezerolles" in Burgundy.) It is a blend of 60% Carinena and 40% Garnacha the vines mostly planted in the 1920 and formerly belonging to a co-operative. The llicorella is not hard here abraded by the elements into small fragments and the wine is aged in large foudres plus a dash of new oak from small 300-litre barriques (Darnajou). It has an outstanding bouquet of lifted fresh ripe blackberry liquorice allspice and thyme with wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied controlling the heat of the growing season with aplomb while retaining outstanding balance and sense of femininity. The tension here is exceptional thanks to the pH of 3.2 (a figure much lower than ten years ago when they were not working under organic viticulture). There is a gentle build towards the liquorice-tinged succulent finish that finally delivers white pepper on the long aftertaste. Drink 2015-2028+. -Neal Martin