This Barolo’s lovely Nebbiolo fragrance shows violet and earthy notes of forest floor with hints of mushroom and truffle. The palate is not fully open, but shows bright cherry, menthol and white pepper notes, as well as bracing but elegant tannins.

Ruby with brick tones at the rim. Much more herbal and cedary than the Monvigliero. Smells cooler and less ripe. Silky, elegant – already! Though no sign of premature development. On the lighter side but persists to a long finish without being demonstrative. 17/20 (JH)

With fruit from Catiglione Falletto and La Morra, the 2009 Barolo Carobric shares similar qualities with the Barolo Bricco Ambrogio. The dry, astringent tannins need time to anchor to the texture and consistency of the wine, but there’s not much flesh for them to grip to. Delicate fruit tones of red currant and dried raspberries do add nicely to the low-key bouquet. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2022. - Monica Larner