(96+ points) The 2009 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with aromas of warm bread, fresh peach, ripe citrus fruit, lemon confit and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack that segues into a muscular, tight-knit core that's multidimensional and intensely mineral, concluding with a long finish. Only 20,000 bottles were produced—in other words, half the legal yield. This is a serious, structured Clos des Goisses that transcends the vintage's tendency to facility, and it will merit and reward extended bottle age.- WK

The 2009 Clos des Goisses has been very tight in two recent tastings, which is probably a very good thing for its long-term prospects, but less so for readers seeking the immediacy that is common in so many 2009 Champagnes. White flowers, orchard fruit, mint white pepper and citrus peel add to the wine’s bright profile. Readers should plan on being extremely patient, as the 2009 Goisses does not show much, if any, early appeal, even if the density and textural persistence of the great years are both there. The 2009 is 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2018.

Super complex and rich, this smells regal with toasted brioche and praline, as well as preserved-lemon, fresh-fig and biscuity notes. The palate is full and round with a chalky core that delivers a long, dry and powerful finish. Drink or hold.

The flavors of cassis, candied lemon zest, anise and toast point show lovely juiciness in this vibrant Champagne, with pleasing delicacy to the finely knit mousse, crisp acidity and chalk-tinged finish. Elegant. Disgorged March 2018. Drink now through 2029. 1,650 cases made, 133 cases imported. — AN

A rich gold with a magisterial bead. Aromas of bergamot, verbena and hints of beeswax, the oak is still persuasive in this relatively youthful state. The ripeness of the year is captured on the palate with more exotic descriptors recalling papaya, mango and peach. The finish is powerful and spicy yet also taut and precise; a carafe would not be out of place for such a serious wine. Read more at http://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/france/vallee-de-la-marne/philipponnat-clos-des-goisses-vallee-de-la-marne-2009-24257#62rAmbXvJMYYeAMp.99