An incredibly complex fresh and seductively perfumed nose offers up a wonderfully layered set of ripe red berry fruit cassis mineral and spice aromas that introduce sappy and lacy yet serious middle weight flavors that possess both excellent power and fine volume all wrapped in a magnificently long finish. The tannins are quite firm yet they're also well-integrated as the abundant dry extract pushes them to the background. In a word sensational. - Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding ♥

The 2009 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was tasted against the 2011, the latter much more expressive and approachable. Speaking to Guillaume d'Angerville himself, seated next to me, I remarked that I thought the 2009 was closing down and he agreed. It has lost its initial exuberance - a bouquet that appears to have closed in on itself. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, stoic and a tad introverted, moody even, slightly grainy in texture with just a touch of piquancy on the finish. I am sure this will ultimately come good, but this is a surly Volnay for the patient. Those without it ought to head for the 2007 or 2011 vintages. - Neal Martin