This ripe lush red features blackberry black currant and smoky bacon fat aromas and flavors. Unabashedly modern in style yet also fresh and tasty. Just a bit oaky on the finish but this has its appeal. Best from 2014 through 2026. - B.S.

A floral and lightly spiced nose with an abundance of earth and very very ripe fruit indeed this flirts with being surmature. The mocha-infused medium weight plus flavors are rich generous and impressively concentrated and culminate in a palate staining and lingering finish. This is a bit too ripe for me but for those who enjoy very ripe yet still reasonably fresh burgs this is one to consider as there is plenty of underlying material.

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is made from vines over 70 years old spread across 15 parcels. The fruit is darker rounder and juicier than in the straight villages Gevrey but the Vieilles Vignes nevertheless retains terrific juiciness and freshness. The warm radiant finish makes this impossible to resist. Mortet used 20% whole clusters here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. -- Antonio Galloni