The estate's top cuvee and a tank and foudre aged blend of old vine Grenache and Mourvèdre the 2009 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas Les Souteyrades possesses soaring aromatics as well as a textbook old-school feel. Perfumed framboise garriuge peppercorn spice cabinet and kirsch all show up on the nose and flow to a full-bodied classically styled Gigondas that shows notable balance fresh acidity brilliant concentration and a focused long finish. The aromatics here are really something and this beauty should benefit from short to mid-term cellaring with a solid 12-15 years of prime drinking.

The top cuvee is the 2009 Gigondas Les Souteyrades which also comes from 60+-year-old vines and is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre. Again it is all aged in old wood foudres and bottled unfined and unfiltered. This wine plays it closer to the vest and one can see that there is a level of density and richness that might eclipse the other two wines but there is also more tannin and a striking near-liqueur of minerals in this wine. It is very reserved and restrained but super-concentrated full-bodied and incredibly impressive with much of the character of the La Louisiane but tighter. It may have more up-side potential that any of these wines but will probably need 1-3 years of bottle-age and then drink well for at least 15 years. 91-93+

This is rounded and fresh but shows good persistence as damson plum red currant and blackberry fruit glides along laced with hints of sandalwood black tea and roasted tobacco. A loamy edge adds some heft to the finish. Drink now through 2016. 250 cases imported. -JM