Xavier Weisskopf (for more about whom consult my report in issue 172) has essayed from vines planted in 1922 a 2009 Montlouis Cuvee Borderies that mingles rich nuttiness and ripe quince and melons with distinctly alkaline chalky notes. A faint hint from the barrel is nicely integrated and parallels a Central Loire Chenin-typical hint of snuffed candle wick smokiness. Succulent notes of citrus serve to render the long subtly bitter finish unusually refreshing for this vintage and the wine's hint of sweetness is well-judged though not hidden and consistent with considerable transparency to mineral nuance. This should be fascinating to follow over at least the next 5-7 years. -David Schildknecht