The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru offers an enticing array of marine scents on the nose: cockle shells and estuarine aromas. Give it a couple more minutes and watch those lovely grilled walnut scents flourish and multiply so that is ends up almost Meursault Perrieres in character. The palate makes an immediate impression on the entry with that subtle nutty theme continuing, partnered with racy acidity, superb concentration and a long, tense finish that is energetic and surfeit with mineralite, flint popping up on the finish. So delicious you could broach a bottle now - but that would be depriving you of what will be in a decade-s time! Drink 2016-2035. - Neal Martin

The 2012 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlie was probably a bit more structured out of the blocks than the 2012 version will be, but their overall quality is quite comparable. With a couple of years of bottle age this wine is showing very well, albeit still a bit too early on in its evolution for primetime drinking. The lovely nose is a blend of candied lemon, pear, chalky soil tones, lemon blossoms and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with lovely attack, fine focus and great length and grip on the very racy backend. A classic. 2018-2040.

A very subtle hint of wood frames the restrained, airy, cool and very fresh nose of green apple, citrus and lightly spiced pear aromas that include a touch of mineral reduction. The intensely mineral-driven flavors possess a mouth feel of pure silk thanks to the ample amount of dry extract that buffers well the very firm and bright acidity that supports the transparent, long and refined finish. This bone dry effort is beautifully well-balanced and because of the abundant extract it will be approachable young yet probably require at least a decade to arrive at its full apogee.