This is a backward brute with a wall of roasted bay leaf cedar alder and juniper guarding the core of black currant fig prune and plum notes. Heady and dense but there's plenty of cut on the finish with a grounding rod of charcoal and singed iron keeping everything upright and focused. Best from 2015 through 2032. -JM

Composed of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah the 2010 Gigondas Valbelle saw some small new oak barrels during its upbringing. There are about 700 cases of this cuvee compared to the 3400 cases of the classic Gigondas. One of the vintage's most profound wines the 2010 Valbelle exhibits an opaque purple color along with copious notes of black raspberries creme de cassis incense forest floor spring flowers and subtle underbrush and earthiness. There may even be a hint of black truffles in this complex full-bodied massively endowed Gigondas. Neither heavy nor ponderous it is a brilliant example that should drink nicely for 15 years.Louis Barruol has been at the top of his game since the late 1990s and over the last few vintages he has been making some of the finest wines in the southern Rhone as well as France. The glories here are Barruol's single vineyard/special cuvees of Gigondas but consumers should not overlook the terrific value offered by his Cotes du Rhones. The wines are sold under two monikers Chateau Saint-Cosme and simply Saint-Cosme (his negociant line-up). Barroul produces a small quantity of Chateauneuf du Pape that is usually about 50% Grenache 30% Mourvedre 10% Cinsault and 10% Syrah.

Even better (but not by much) the 2010 Château de Saint-Cosme Gigondas Valbelle is a co-fermented blend of 90% Grenache (80-year-old vines) and 10% Syrah fermented whole cluster that is aged for 12 months in 30% new oak. It is a spectacular wine that offers layers of raspberry black licorice spice saddle leather smoked herbs and serious minerality on the nose. As with the straight Gigondas this is not for those seeking instant gratification and is firm and structured on the palate with rock solid mid-palate concentration fresh acids and masses of tannin. Give bottles 3-5 years and then plan on drinking over the following two decades. - Jeb Dunnuck