The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino opens to heady, masculine tones of smoked meat, spice, dark fruit and balsam herb. This is the best Brunello I have tasted from Maddalena Cordella, a relatively unknown producer from the northern part of the appellation. The wine maintains big structure and bold intensity, yet stays true to the elegant and nuanced nature of Sangiovese. It is inoculated with indigenous yeasts and sees 26 months in oak. Pretty blue flower, herbal and licorice tones add an unexpected twist of vitality on the long, fresh finish. This Brunello needs five more years of bottle aging in order to flesh out. - Monica Larner