It is easy to understand why Cathy Corison's Cabernets enjoy such an enthusiastic following. Her style, based in large measure on her preference for soils and sites she identified as best for nicely ripened grapes with a certain bright fruit balance, enable her to produce wines that are full of flavors and lower in alcohol than almost any other maker in the Napa Valley. In this wine, Corison offers an exceptional combination of exuberant fruit, admirable depth, layers of curranty, cherryish and roasted vanilla flavors and nicely mannered tannins. To say that the wine is tasty without being bold is to miss the point. Its flavors go on and on, and they build through the finish, yet there is not a hint of excess at any stop, and the wine is sure to age on its balance, complexity and underlying firmness rather than on the basis of large and palate-challenging muscularity. We know that the top Cabernets can last up to twenty years. This is such a wine.