Cellar Selection. A new concept from this Aÿ-based producer, this wine showcases pure Pinot Noir from some of its finest parcels. The wine has weight and richness while not losing sight of elegance. The fruit is just beginning to mature, showing a crisp texture while promising a broader vision in the future. Drink from 2021.

The 2010 Brut Pinot Noir Parcelles d'Aÿ Hommage à William Deutz is showing beautifully after several years on cork, offering up an expressive bouquet of green orchard fruit, honeycomb, raspberries and warm biscuits. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it's charming and expressive, with a delicate pinpoint mousse that complements its generous core of fruit. Structurally open, this is drinking very well today. Readers will note that the 2010 rendition is a blend of lieux-dits Meurtet and La Côte Glacière—which were bottled separately in 2012. - William Kelley

A finely knit version, with a plush, creamy mousse, this marries a sleek, acidic frame and a streak of smoke-tinged minerality with flavors of crushed raspberry, kumquat, grated ginger and biscuit. Racy finish. Disgorged May 2018. Drink now through 2028. — AN