An elegant and extremely pure nose of citrus, stone and sea breeze where the latter two elements also characterize the rich, full-bodied and solidly well-concentrated flavors that are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that confers a textured quality to the seductive and saline-infused finish that displays impeccable balance. Despite the impressive size and weight this is actually quite fine; indeed I would even go so far as to call this a wine of finesse.

The 2010 Chablis Sechets is all about intensity. In this vintage, the Sechets impresses for its persistence and multi-dimensional personality. The slightly angular contours typical of the wine are present, but there is so much fruit that they are barely perceptible. An attractive, spiced note adds complexity on the finish. I also tasted the 1993, which was flat-out stunning, with many fine years of drinking still left. I only wished I owned it. Anticipated maturity: 2013.