From ten year old selection massale vines in a rocky south-facing Oxfordian site south of Sancerre proper the Vacherons' 2010 Sancerre Paradis - raised in wooden upright plus a few older barriques - showed some reductive reticence that they say they have begun to associate with this meager-soiled spot though they testify to the wine having been much more open before bottling. Still there is an impressive bracing and mouthwatering sense of things maritime here beginning with saline alkaline iodine-tinged sea breeze which then mingles on the palate with fresh lime oyster shell and crushed stone. Bitter suggestions of huckleberry lime rind and pungent green herbs extend the finish albeit austerely though the citrus and salt serve for prolonged provocation of the salivary glands while a sensation of glycerin slick complements the wine's edginess. This almost severely concentrated energy-charged Sancerre should be fascinating to follow - though it will want careful pairing at table (both as regards choice of cuisine and guests ;-) - over the next half dozen or so years. 90+ --- David Schildknecht