Muller’s 2010 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese offers a similarly striking contrast with its counterpart from the Braune Kupp to that displayed between the corresponding Spatlesen, since in the present wine we have an elixir of remarkable levity, refinement, and polished textural allure. What’s more, the flavors now shift toward honey, white raisin, salted caramel, and quince preserves, unabashedly exhibiting these grapes’ noble botrytization. And even despite what I am sure are enormously high acids, these act only as hidden, energizing springs until the finish kicks in with overt citricity that help leaven and balance the wines liqueur-like texture and sweetness. I think we can safely presume a quarter-century’s strong performance here. This wine was in effect a byproduct, says Muller, having been culled from the corresponding gold capsule Auslesen rather than the other way around. -DS

Very creamy and rich, with loads of ripe peach, apricot tart, honeydew melon and glazed citrus flavors. Honey cream and spice accents fill the lush finish, which features notes of tropical fruits and oils. Drink now through 2035. 50 cases imported. — KM