The Gobelsburg 2010 Gruner Veltliner Steinsetz - which wasn't picked until mid-November - unites textural richness with refreshment pithy piquancy and mineral impingement. Cress and lime; green bean and coffee; crushed stone and iodine convey their complex interactive message on a polished buoyant (at 12.7% alcohol) palate leading to a finish both exuberant and gripping. This may prove too much a mouthful of minerals for some but should prove fascinatingly versatile for at least the next 6-8 years.