A beautifully crafted Barolo, with ripe cherry, plum, leather, spice, mineral and smoke elements. Starts off supple and approachable, but the gripping tannins soon move in, securing the lengthy, spice-filled finish. An underlying mineral vein adds depth. Best from 2018 through 2036. From Italy. — B.S.

It opens with varietal aromas of leather, tilled earth, underbrush, truffle and berry. The intense palate delivers black cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon, clove and licorice alongside velvety, teeth-coating tannins and brisk acidity. Usually the most accessible of Conterno’s single-vineyard Barolos, the 2010 is loaded with energy and destined for lengthy aging. Drink 2020–2040.

Showing an increased level of heft and concentration, the 2010 Barolo Bussia Colonnello is aged a few more months in Slavonian oak compared to the base Barolo from the celebrated Bussia cru. Oak spice, leather and tobacco are folded within bright notes of dark cherry and cassis. The wine imparts a sophisticated and thickly textured sensation on the finish. Colonnello is only at the very beginning of its bottle evolution. Drink: 2017-2030. - Monica Larner