Gaja’s classic Barbaresco is gorgeous in 2010, showing an intense perfume of violet, earth and ripe red fruits punctuated by balsamic notes. The palate delivers rich wild cherry notes layered with mint, cinnamon and eucalyptus. This is structured and elegant and will develop more complexity over time. Drink this after 2018.

Smack from the start, the 2010 Barbaresco shows full-on Gajissimo personality with irresistible opulence and intensity, magically contrasted against remarkable smoothness and finesse. Everyone wants to know his secret. The wine delivers seductively rich concentration and integrated oak that is offset by a delicate portfolio of chiseled mineral, dried berry fruit, Spanish cedar, crushed herb, anisette and blue flower. Fruit is sourced from 14 vineyards in Barbaresco. It already leaves a mark, but will reward those who wait. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. - Monica Larner