While none of the wines in this year's Prager collection exceed 13.5% in alcohol ("thankfully" adds Bodenstein) the 2010 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Hinter der Burg follows in a long recent line by barely scraping under the 12.5% upper limit set for its category. Pungent scents and flavors of lemon sea oats and green herbs accent a matrix of yellow plum and strawberry supported by glyceral richness and a sense of extract sweetness. A suggestion of beet root and nip of white pepper lend the finish of this satisfyingly succulent Gruner Veltliner a more recognizable varietal character. There has seldom been a more luscious sappy Federspiel at this address whether or not the results fit Bodenstein's generally correct characterization of this vintage as one of "elegance and finesse." I would expect to enjoy this anytime over the next 4-6 years though be inclined to favor relishing its youthful fruitiness.-David Schildknecht