Fresh lime and lemon - along with the bite of their pips - render Dagueneau's 2010 Blanc Fume de Pouilly (just before bottling) refreshing and invigorating. Cut bell-like clarity and shimmering interchange of citrus herb salt and stone lead to a ringing persistence that reels you in for the next sip an appeal that I don't expect will fade for at least the next half dozen years. - David Schildknecht