Fragrant and sleek, this opens with scents of blue flower, pressed powder, perfumed berry and chopped herb. The balanced, full-bodied palate delivers licorice, ripe black cherry, clove and tobacco while firm, velvety tannins lend structure and finesse.

Altesino's 2011 Brunello di Montalcino opens with beguiling aromatics. Sage, licorice, menthol and sweet tobacco flesh out nicely as the wine shows off its ample, broad personality. The tannins could use another year or two to soften, but all the elements are very nicely balanced throughout. This gracious, silky Brunello will drink well for the next decade-plus.

The 2011 Brunello di Montalcino shows a very distinct personality that separates it from its peers. There's a dark, mysterious and masculine side to this wine that is evident from first impact. The bouquet offers infinite layers of black fruit, plum, spice, cumin seed and crushed clove. You get a great sense of moist earth, tobacco and forest floor. Nothing is obvious. The wine keeps you guessing sip after sip. It would benefit from more years of cellar aging, but it's really not that far off from optimal drinking.- ML