Vincent Dauvissat's 2011 Chablis Les Clos smells strikingly maritime in its evocations of sea breeze, kelp, driftwood, clam stock and crustacean shell reduction. And if those scents don-t get your salivary glands pumping then their palate transmigration onto a fleshy yet buoyant and refreshing palate is bound to do the trick. This finishes with impressive sheer persistence, and if it doesn-t display quite the transparency or energy that one meets with from Les Clos at its best, I would urge those lucky enough to be able to acquire some to follow bottles through at least 2020 as I am sure the wine will yet have more to say for itself. - David Schildknecht

This is also highly perfumed with a pronounced floral component dominating the other aromas that are composed of citrus, seaweed, iodine and mineral reduction while leaving no doubt that this could be nothing other than Chablis. There is excellent size, weight and muscle to the overtly powerful and well-concentrated flavors that exude a fine minerality on the extract rich finish. This explosive effort is almost aggressively saline and should improve for up to a decade in bottle.