This is really quite good and I like the elegance of the cool and admirably pure floral, citrus and ripe pear aromas that are liberally cut with soft spice nuances. There is good energy and cut to the equally cool middle weight flavors that deliver fine depth and length on the stony and relatively dry finish. This is already approachable and given how delicious it is, it will be hard to leave alone.

The warm essence of lemon carries through this wine, a rich Puligny with scents of fresh grain and lasting flavors of green citrus fruit. The wine’s alcohol is not completely woven into the fruit, needing bottle age to integrate.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er Cru 2011 from Dominique Lafon has a well-defined but rather uncomplicated nose with scents of grapefruit, persimmon and a hint of beeswax. The oak is a little obvious, but it is in sync with the fruit. The palate is simple on the entry with tangy orange zest notes and peach skin. There is good weight here, but it just seems a little over-worked and consequently loses some finesse. The acidity seems not locked-in to the fruit, but that may come with time. - Neal Martin